A charming little limestone crag tucked away in a small sheltered valley, hemmed in by shady trees and wild garlic plants. The routes are all clip ups with a grade range from F5b to F8a+. The crag is deceptively steep, but its arm pumping nature soon becomes apparent once you’ve left the ground. The rock is compact and generally solid.
There is a very strict access agreement here - no dogs allowed at any time, only approach the crag along the agreed access route, no climbing during night time. Do not enter or disturb the pheasant pens or structures. No access at all from October 1st to Feb 1st. Check out the BMC Regional Access Database for full details. There are a few other crags in the same area: Castle Slab, Waterfall Crag and Meliden Quarry.
The crag gets plenty of sun, although the trees do provide some dappled shade. It is steep enough to stay dry in a light shower. There are no major seepage issues and the rock dries quickly after rain.
From the ‘Dyserth to Prestatyn walkway’ car park, follow the walkway towards Prestatyn to a bridge. Go right before the bridge, up some steps then make your way through two kissing gates, across a footbridge to a track - turn left and follow to a fence. Turn right and follow this fence to another fence surrounding a cultivated area, until you get to a gate - go through this into a small wooded valley and the crag should appear on your left.