The superb Tremadog crags remain an attractive option for both visiting and local climbers. Little wonder when you consider the high concentration of top quality routes throughout the grade spectrum. Other factors such as the ease of access, the wonderful frictional qualities of the fast-drying dolerite rock, and last but not least the perfectly positioned Eric’s cafe, all contribute to this popularity. Throughout the area the climbing style is traditional, and typically multi-pitch. There are some recently developed sport routes in Moel y Gest Quarry.
The Tremadog cliffs are well known as alternative options to rain-blighted mountain crags (year-round climbing is also possible). The Tremadog crags will dry very quickly after rain with a decent breeze.
The main Tremadog cliffs are conveniently bunched together and all close to the road.
Craig Bwlch y Moch
Classic routes, perfect rock and roadside convenience ensure the enduring popularity of this fine crag. The magnificent Vector Buttress is one of the finest pieces of rock in Wales - the only downside Is the polished gleam evident on some of the higher profile routes, such is the price of fame. The adjacent cafe, campsite and bunkhouse have long provided a traditional base for visiting climbers. Interestingly, the crag has been owned and managed by the BMC since 1979.
Approach: The crag looms prominently over the A498 Tremadog - Beddgelert road between Eric’s cafe and the sharp bend at Portreuddyn castle. Convenient parking is available at Eric’s Cafe.
Craig Pant Ifan
One of the finest crags in the area and home to numerous well-established classics. The rock is the usual immaculate Tremadog dolerite formed into bold and striking features.
Craig y Castell
This fantastic crag, situated just over a 1km west of Craig Pant Ifan, has an open aspect and several outstanding routes. It is also, generally, a good deal quieter than nearby Bwlch y Moch or Pant Ifan. The climbing itself is wonderfully varied and continuously interesting.
Craig y Gesail
The least frequented of the main Tremadog cliffs, and arguably the least Important. Nonetheless Craig y Gesail provides a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of its neighbours. The routes are good, if a little vegetated in places. The rock, where free of the creeping tendrils of greenery, is the usual immaculate dolerite that we all know and love. The crag is situated a few kms west of Craig Castell. For approach details please check the BMC regional Access database.
Moel y Gest Quarry
Across on the other side of the valley is a shady quarry which has a number of good sport climbs (NB. There is a seasonal nesting restriction here – check the BMC Regional Access Database for more details).