This neat limestone crag has a few worthwhile trad routes, but most visitors come for the 24 sport routes. Although mostly short (i.e. up to 10m) the routes are intense enough to give a memorable ride. There is a good spread of clip ups across the grade range from F6a to F7c. The rock is excellent quality in places, but also a bit suspect in others. Excessive Ivy growth can be a problem on some routes but most are not affected.
Across on the other side of the valley is the White Goods crag, a dry tooling venue. This is a useful training venue for winter climbers, but there is little in the lower grades and loose blocks can be a problem.
The crag stays remarkably dry during wet periods. On Butterfly Buttress some seepage may be present at the base of the wall but this rarely affects the routes. It gets the afternoon sun and is very sheltered. Year round climbing is certainly possible, indeed there will be times, particularly during the winter months, when this is one of the only places in North Wales where you will find dry rock.
As you arrive in the village of Pwllglas park immediately on the left in the lay-by (assuming you have come from Ruthin). Walk 100m back up the road (in the direction of Ruthin) and drop down a small road/track on the right. Follow this across the river then around a left hairpin and up until a path is seen on the right – follow this path rightwards for a few hundred metres before cutting up through the trees to reach the crag.