This old limestone quarry features a large selection of low-to-mid grade sport routes. The crag sits on the headland above Old Colwyn and is clearly visible from the A55. Penmaen Head has a pleasant south westerly aspect and easy access. On the downside it does have a slightly ‘urban’ feel to it, and there is some traffic noise, particularly on Expressway Wall.
The routes have an intensity typical of outcrop style crags, even the shorter pitches seem to pack a lot of climbing in. Even though the rock is quarried much of the quarrying has taken place along natural fault lines; consequently the revealed faces do feature, in places, some delightful flowstone reminiscent of a natural limestone crag. Most of the rock seems to be sound but in places suspect holds will be encountered.
There are other similar sport crags situated close to the A55 corridor. Be sure to check out the nearby Castle Inn Quarry which has a wide selection of low and mid grade sport routes on excellent quality rock. Further sport climbing can be found at Penmaenbach Quarry, Craig Seiriol and The Gallery – these crags are located further west along the A55 close to Penmaenmawr.
The crag is west facing and thus stays shady in the mornings – a useful characteristic during the summer months. If you do want to climb in the sun then afternoon or evening visits are your best bet. The rock is quick to dry after rain but in a few places there are seepage issues, particularly after sustained rainfall.
All of the crags mentioned here can be reached quickly from the A55 Expressway.