Penmaen Head and Castle Inn Quarry

Rock Climbing

Penmaen Head / Trwyn Penmaen | ©Si Panton

Penmaen Head and Castle Inn Quarry

Rock Climbing

This old limestone quarry features a large selection of low-to-mid grade sport routes. The crag sits on the headland above Old Colwyn and is clearly visible from the A55. Penmaen Head has a pleasant south westerly aspect and easy access. On the downside it does have a slightly ‘urban’ feel to it, and there is some traffic noise, particularly on Expressway Wall.

The routes have an intensity typical of outcrop style crags, even the shorter pitches seem to pack a lot of climbing in. Even though the rock is quarried much of the quarrying has taken place along natural fault lines; consequently the revealed faces do feature, in places, some delightful flowstone reminiscent of a natural limestone crag. Most of the rock seems to be sound but in places suspect holds will be encountered.
There are other similar sport crags situated close to the A55 corridor. Be sure to check out the nearby Castle Inn Quarry which has a wide selection of low and mid grade sport routes on excellent quality rock. Further sport climbing can be found at Penmaenbach Quarry, Craig Seiriol and The Gallery – these crags are located further west along the A55 close to Penmaenmawr.

Conditions:

The crag is west facing and thus stays shady in the mornings – a useful characteristic during the summer months. If you do want to climb in the sun then afternoon or evening visits are your best bet. The rock is quick to dry after rain but in a few places there are seepage issues, particularly after sustained rainfall.

Approach:

All of the crags mentioned here can be reached quickly from the A55 Expressway.


Safety & Access
More info on Rock Climbing View on map

Safety & Access

The publisher of this website accepts no responsibility for the way in which readers use the information contained therein. The descriptions and recommendations are for guidance only and must be subject to discriminating judgement by the reader. Advice and training should be sought before utilising any equipment or techniques mentioned within the text or shown in any of the photographic images. Climbing is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in this activity should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

Access Notes:

Parking:

Season Dates:

Seasonal Notes:

Group Access:

Additional Information:

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