This steep limestone crag, also known as Devil’s Gorge, is a fairly hardcore venue which will suit those operating in the grade 7 range. The climbing is invariably powerful, but quite finger friendly. The landings are good, albeit dusty so pads are still needed to keep your rock shoes clean.
There are three main sections – each offer climbing of a differing character.
This is a sheltered spot, although not quite sheltered enough to qualify as a genuine all weather venue. Rainfall is low but seepage can be a serious problem on some sections of the crag, particularly during the winter months. Dampness is also often a major issue. As with other limestone venues, the worst conditions occur when a temperature rise happens – this causes the porous limestone to sweat. A visit on a cool, breezy day will give the best chance of good conditions.
Park sensibly off the main road at the T-junction at the west end of the village of Pantymwyn. Walk down the track marked as a public footpath. Go through a gate at the bottom of the hill, and continue straight on over a stile when the track bends to the left. Follow the path down, passing the routes gorge on the left and drop down and round on the right to reach the river level path which leads back left past the gorge entrance to the main cave.