The Ogwen Valley is an enduringly popular destination, particularly for climbers operating in the lower grades. Famous crags such as the Idwal Slabs or the East face of Tryfan; a dramatic peak of if ever there was, provide fantastic multi-pitch routes with a strong mountaineering slant. Indeed, in the Idwal area, there is much potential for extended link-ups, echoing the Alpine experience. Elsewhere in the valley there are a multitude of smaller cliffs offering varying degrees of an adventurous and physical nature. The climbing is predominantly traditional multi-pitch, even the popular beginner’s crag, Tryfan Bach, is two pitches high.
It is possible to climb in this area for all seasons except the winter when significant snow and ice build up should be expected, particularly on the higher crags. The higher cliffs are certainly best saved for the summer months when they will present a more hospitable front. Most of crags are fairly quick to dry after rain, but some do suffer from seepage.
On summer weekends the parking opportunities around the Ogwen Cottage are soon overwhelmed. However, further down the valley towards Tryfan, space can normally be found in one of the large lay-bys. The main crags are also accessible via the Sherpa bus service, which runs up and down the valley from Capel Curig to Bethesda. All the crags can be reached by walking up from the A5 road which runs down the valley.