The sunny aspect and laid back feel of the Gwynant valley is likely to instil a sense of calm in the mind of the bedraggled visitor. It certainly offers a pleasingly serene alternative to the busy Tremadog cliffs or the nearby Llanberis Pass. Be warned though, these routes can turn stroppy and awkward if treated with contempt. In fact, anything less than a concerted effort is likely to end in weighted runners and bruised egos! The two main crags, Clogwyn y Bustach and Clogwyn y Wenallt give a good selection of feisty trad routes, mostly in the extreme grades, but with a few VSs and a famous Diff: Lockwood’s Chimney. This latter route is a popular trip for outdoor centre groups, even on a wet day it sees regular ascents.

The rock is mostly good quality, especially on Clogwyn y Wenallt, but on parts of Clogwyn y Bustach suspect rock will be encountered.

Conditions:

The crags receive morning sun and are fairly quick to dry, although some drainage streaks do tend to linger. On still summer evenings it can be particularly midgey here.

Approach:

From the back corner of the Nant Gwynant campsite cross the footbridge over the river to reach the lakeside path. Clogwyn y Wenallt sits just up to the left, but to reach Clogwyn y Bustach you need to follow the path which eventually runs parallel to the river and reaches a wooded boulder field below the crag.