The focal point of any walk hereabouts is inevitably the summit ridge of Mynydd Penarfynydd, but a trip to Porth Ysgo is also a must. The approach down Nant y Gadwen takes you past numerous old mine entrances and out to an old winding house. The mines once produced a considerable amount of manganese that was carried out to ships on a 100m long jetty built over the large sea-washed boulder field. The jetty is long gone and these days the boulders have become a popular site for climbers; indeed you may see some of them carrying portable crash pads down onto the rocks. The main bay of Porth Ysgo, which is reached by a handy set of wooden steps, has a lovely secluded beach – the perfect spot for a picnic before you press onto higher ground.
Walking towards the seaward end of Mynydd Penarfynydd it feels like the world is dropping away beneath you, such is the steepness of the hillside running down to Trwyn Talfarach. The spectacular position is matched by the uplifting vista along the coast towards Bardsey Island.
A delightful contour path leads across the hillside beneath Mynydd y Graig with breathtaking views of Hell’s Mouth, the famous surfing bay that stretches right across to Cilan Head. A scramble along the edge of the escarpment (staying on the seaward side) leads to a final treat: the Mynydd y Graig summit.
There is some roadside parking on the road leading down from Rhiw to the Penarfynydd farm. There is also a small layby at the head of Nant y Gadwen, plus a parking area at Ysgo.
A combination of narrow roads, tracks and footpaths (some of which are a bit rough in places).