The dolerite quarry on the north side of Moel y Gest provides a small collection of tough problems; those operating in the grade seven range will get the most out of the place. Most of the problems are located on the large blocks scattered around the right hand bay. The landings are often quite rocky so take plenty of pads and spotters.
There is also some bouldering at the base of the crag in various places – the landings tend to be better on these problems, but the problems are quite highball so pads are still essential.
There is a voluntary nesting restriction running from March 1st to June 15th. Please respect this and avoid disturbing any birds throughout the rest of the year and do check the BMC Regional Access Database for updates.
The shady aspect makes this a good summer venue. It is slow to dry after rain and in damp conditions moving around the boulder field can be difficult and slippy.
Park at a small layby close to a petrol garage (just inside the 30mph limit signs) on the A497 Porthmadog - Criccieth road. A track leads up from the layby and turns into an old quarry on the left. Ignore this turning and continue rightwards on the path, following it steeply up through the trees and out onto the open hillside. 100m after exiting the woodland turn right and contour across to reach the top left corner of the quarry.