This limestone sport crag has seen extensive development in recent years and now constitutes five distinct sectors. There over 80 routes to go at with a good range of difficulty running from F5 up to F8b. The Forgotten Sun area contains a series of open wall climbs on blocky limestone and includes one of the crag classics: Ralarwdins F6b+.
The main cave, which provides some shelter from passing showers, hosts a number of varied routes and the hardest routes on the crag. The routes inside the cave are particularly atmospheric – make sure you check out Guano on Sight F6a+.
Further left from the main cave three new walls have been developed. K O Wall and Golf Ball Wallare fairly short but offer some good climbing. At the far end The Tower gives the best climbing, with Vegas Nights F6c+ being the outstanding classic.
The nearby Craig y Forwyn is an excellent crag but there are ongoing access issues – see the BMC Regional Access database for full details.
Llanddulas is remarkably sheltered and a good option in marginal, showery weather. That being said rainfall levels in this area are surprisingly low. There is a small amount of seepage in places but mostly this is not an issue. In hot weather it usually possible to find some shade out of the sun.
The crag can be reached easily from the eastern side of Llanddulas - if you are arriving by car please park with respect to local residents. Close to the Clipterfyn road a break in the wall gives access to a path leading into the woods and up to the different areas of the crag.