The centrepiece of North Wales climbing, this remarkable crag-infested mountain valley has the highest concentration of classic routes in the whole area. The best cliffs are arguably Dinas Cromlech and Dinas Mot, but quality climbing can be found on all the main crags.
The climbing is predominantly multi-pitch traditional, although some single pitch climbs can be found. The rock is generally good quality rhyolite or dolerite but loose or creaky holds will be encountered in places.
Climbing on the bigger and higher cliffs, such as Cyrn Las and Clogwyn y Ddysgl are limited to dry summer spells, however the crags on the sunny north side of the Pass can be climbed on even in the depths of winter provided it’s not too snowy or windy. The obvious exception to the rule is Craig Ddu, which seeps with enthusiasm through the winter months.
All the crags can be reached by walking up from the A4084 which runs down the valley. On summer weekends both the Pen y Pass car park and the lay-bys in the Pass soon fill up with Snowdon-bound hill walkers. Spaces usually start to appear again around 3 o’clock in the afternoon. Your choice is to arrive early, or come later on. Alternatively park in Llanberis or in the large car park in Nant Peris and catch a Sherpa bus up the Pass. During the week parking is rarely an issue.