Little Orme

Bouldering

Angel Bay/Porth Dyniewaid | ©Si Panton

Little Orme

Bouldering

Angel Bay, the tidal limestone bay situated on the north side of Little Orme, is home to many classic problems. The steep wave-smoothed rock is well featured with water worn scoops and pockets that are a joy to climb on. The pebble beach offers a reasonable landing in most conditions, but it is not unusual for the pebble levels to shift by a metre in height after a storm. This may expose bare rock landings, or conversely make some sit down starts redundant.

On top of Little Orme two undercut walls provide excellent sport, and over on the south side of the hill is Manor Crag where some quick drying problems can be found.

Conditions:

At high tide the sea covers all of the problems; consequently at low tide residual dampness can be a problem. Indeed, if humid conditions prevail, it may be wise to pick another venue. Conversely if you visit on a cool, windy day, no doubt the rock will be dry. That said, a towel is always useful for drying the lower footholds. In the summer some sunshine reaches into the bay but in the winter it is mostly shady.

Approach:

Park at the end of the road in the Penrhyn Beach housing estate, taking care not to block any driveways. Walk up the steps, turn right and head along to a flat grassy area below an incline leading to the upper quarry. It is possible to drop into the bay just beyond this point.


Safety & Access
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Safety & Access

The publisher of this website accepts no responsibility for the way in which readers use the information contained therein. The descriptions and recommendations are for guidance only and must be subject to discriminating judgement by the reader. Advice and training should be sought before utilising any equipment or techniques mentioned within the text or shown in any of the photographic images. Bouldering is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in this activity should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

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