An attractive roadside venue with a neat collection of technically interesting problems, plus a few excellent satellite problems. The location, with dramatic views down Nant Ffrancon, is quite superb. The landings are generally good, although some of the problems are decidedly highball so pads are still recommended. The rock is clean, but in places is very polished.
More highball slabs and ribs can be found if you wander rightwards and explore the hillside above the old Nant Ffrancon road. Some of these are very good indeed. A further batch of quality problems are based around the large boulder sat in a very prominent position on the Pen-yr-Ole Wen side of Llyn Ogwen opposite the Ogwen Cottage. There is also a good circuit to be found amongst the boulders beneath Clogwyn y Tarw and on a collection of boulders close to the Nant Bochlwyd stream 100m from the road (and 300m along from Ogwen Cottage).
The main crag is west facing and gets plenty of sun; consequently it is quick drying. There is the odd patch of seepage but wet holds are rarely an issue. The other boulders are open and quick drying. If you want to climb in the sun then a late afternoon/evening visit is best. In the winter months favourable conditions are not uncommon.
Park at Ogwen Cottage and walk along the old road for 150m to the cattle grid. The crag lies immediately on the left.