Great Orme is home to several important bouldering venues. At the start of the Marine Drive is the infamous Parisella’s Cave, a super hardcore venue with the highest concentration of hard problems in North Wales. Above the Marine Drive the Craig Pen Trwyn escarpment continues around the headland. At the base of this crag a number of bouldering opportunities present themselves, the Norman Wisdom Wall and Pill Box Wall being the best. The tidal Pigeon’s Cave boulders are also very good, and other interesting areas can be found on the West Shore side.
The climbing style is typical limestone, i.e. steep and powerful, and the best problems are in the grade 7 + 8 range. The landings are normally good but pads are essential for keeping feet clean. There are some access restrictions – check the BMC Regional Access Database for details.
Year round climbing is possible here. Rainfall is low but seepage and dampness can be a problem. The worst conditions occur when a temperature rise happens – this causes the porous limestone to sweat.
All the key areas are accessed from Marine Drive, which is easily reached from the sea front in Llandudno. If you want to drive around there is a charge, payable at the toll booth at the start of the drive. Marine Drive is a one way road (so no reversing back), and do make sure that you park sensibly and avoid blocking the road.