Gogarth

Rock Climbing

Castell Helen | ©Si Panton

Gogarth

Rock Climbing

For many climbers the glorious sea cliffs of Gogarth are the pinnacle of the Welsh climbing experience. Here you can test yourself against a vast array of adventurous and sometimes serious routes. Gogarth definitely suits the more competent climber; many of the routes are tidal and loose rock is often encountered. There is little in the lower grades, and a degree of experience and composure is required to deal with the infamous Gogarth ‘grip’ factor.

Gogarth North

The Gogarth North area covers the cliffs running north from Upper Tier, past Main Cliff, easter Island Gully, Wen Zawn, Flytrap Zawn, North Stack Wall and around to Tsunami Zawn. There is a variable nesting restriction on Flytrap Zawn – check out the BMC Regional Access Database for details. You should also check the tide times before any visit.

Conditions:

The cliffs are mostly west or south-facing suntraps, permitting climbing throughout the year. In fact in the mid-summer sun, it can be unbearably hot, especially on sections such as Main Cliff. Seepage is sometimes an issue but a more common problem is dampness, which can be bad, especially in the morning and on the sea level sections of the cliff.

Approach:

It is possible to walk into the area from either the South Stack café end or the North Stack end via the path running through Breakwater Quarry. Some of the cliffs are approached by scrambling and sea level traversing, but in other places abseil descent is used.

Gogarth South

The Gogarth South area offers a smorgasbord of adventurous climbing cast across a range of exciting sea cliffs. These cliffs, like their northern counterparts, definitely suit the more competent climber; many of the routes are tidal and loose rock is often encountered.
The Gogarth Souh area covers the cliffs running north from The Range, past Smurf Zawn, Blacksmith’s Zawn, Penlas Rock, Yellow Wall, Castell Hellen, Red Wall, Moustrap Zawn and around to Thunderbird Zawn and Trinity House Walls. There are seasonal nesting restrictions on several of the cliffs (from 1st February to 31st July) – check out the BMC Regional Access Database for full details. You should also check the tide times before any visit.

Conditions:

The cliffs are mostly west or south-facing suntraps, permitting climbing throughout the year. In fact in the mid-summer sun, it can be unbearably hot. Seepage is sometimes an issue but a more common problem is dampness, which can be bad, especially in the morning and on the sea level sections of the cliff.

Approach:

It is possible to walk into all the cliffs (except The Range) from the South Stack café. Some of the cliffs are approached by scrambling and sea level traversing, but in other places abseil descent is used.


Safety & Access
More info on Rock Climbing View on map

Safety & Access

The publisher of this website accepts no responsibility for the way in which readers use the information contained therein. The descriptions and recommendations are for guidance only and must be subject to discriminating judgement by the reader. Advice and training should be sought before utilising any equipment or techniques mentioned within the text or shown in any of the photographic images. Climbing is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in this activity should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.

Access Notes:

Parking:

Season Dates:

Seasonal Notes:

Group Access:

Additional Information:

×


View Slideshow


Travel Time

Sunset Sunrise

Sunset Sunrise

Weather

Now


°C


Feels like °C

mph
Next 24hrs

Tides

Next High

Next Low

iWitness Pro

Feeds from Heart of Adventure Partners accross North Wales

×

Books, Guides & Maps

North Wales Rock


The very best rock climbs at crags all over north-west Wales. A lifetime's worth of climbing, all in one handy sized book.

Purchase

OS Maps for area

Explorer OL262


Market Place

Powered by Heart of Adventure