The intermittent limestone escarpment which runs down the eastern side of the Eglwyseg Valley features a brace of celebrated crags: from World’s End across to Craig Arthur and southwards past the Twilight and Pinfold areas to Monk’s Buttress, Dinbren and the Trevor area. The hill top location is quite beautiful and the views are superb.
The dominant climbing style is traditional but there are also a significant number (around 150) of sport climbs, including some in the low grades at the Trevor area. The rock quality varies from immaculate to slightly suspect, although most routes are on good rock. Most of the crags are natural but there is also some quarried sections.
There are seasonal nesting restrictions on Craig Arthur and Monk’s Buttress – check out the BMC Regional Access Database for full details.
The relatively low altitude and sunny aspect ensure that year round climbing is possible here. Some of the crags are quite exposed and should be avoided on windy days. The Pinfold area has some seepage issues, but elsewhere the rock is quick to dry after rain. Shade can be found on Monk’s Buttress and World’s End – the latter offering some shelter from the wind too.
All of the crags can be reached quickly from Llangollen. A useful road contours along the hillside below the escarpment. There are a few parking spaces on this road and obvious paths running up to and across to the individual crags.