A classic mountain crag hosting a number of celebrated routes. Nestled in the north-west flank of the Nantlle ridge, Craig yr Ogof feels wonderfully isolated. That being said, you might be surprised how many other climbers turn up on a sunny summer weekend. The popularity is easy to understand. Here we have a fine collection of authentic mountain routes on an attractive cliff, invariably blessed with sunshine, and all surrounded by the beautiful upland setting of Cwm Silyn. The rock is quite compact, and largely sound, however, in places it does leave little option for runners.
The crag has a number of celebrated multi-pitch routes running from Diff up to E2. If you fancy a bit of bouldering, the large block that you pass on the approach has some very good problems.
The south-west aspect guarantees that the crag soaks up any sunshine that is available. The Great Slab dries quickly, although some routes can remain greasy for a few days after rain. Seepage should also be expected in the cracks and grooves following any wet weather. Given the altitude, during a typical winter there will be few days when comfortable climbing conditions will occur.
The crag is best reached from Llanllyfni, which is just south of Pen y Groes. A series of minor roads lead to a parking spot just beyond Bryn Gwyn Farm. From here it is possible to walk into the crag along the obvious grassy track.