An excellent crag which is popular with beginners. The routes are single pitch trad between 30m and 50m long. The rock is a gloriously rough igneous which climbs well, although it doesn’t always offer runner placements. There are a number of good low grade routes on the main crag, plus some harder and bolder lines for the more experienced to try.
The smaller, steeper Upper Tier, located up behind the main crag, is less popular and thus a bit dirtier. The routes are very good though, with a trio of E4/5s and the rest, bar a lone Diff, in the VS – E1 range.
There is also a small but useful bouldering circuit here for those who fancy a diversion from the roped climbing.
The main crag is quick drying and has a sunny aspect. Year round climbing is possible, provided the sun is out and it’s not too windy. That being said the crag is exposed and situated at a relatively high altitude so winter visits may be a bit chilly to be comfortable.
The crag is clearly seen from the Ffestiniog – Penmachno road. There is a small parking area on the southern shore of Llyn Dubach. Approach directly on the obvious muddy footpath. The Upper Tier lies to the left of and behind the main crag, just to the left of the abandoned quarry workings.