A steep, roadside wall which is home to some excellent independent lines and a vast array of powerful/ tricky eliminate problems. A useful venue if it’s really tipping it down (the crag is totally sheltered from rain) and you don’t want to retreat to the climbing wall. The four main up lines are all about 6B+ and can be extended with sitting starts and traverse links. The low level traverse is perhaps 6B (once you’ve sussed out all the tricks). The landing is good, but the problems go quite high up the wall and descent is either by a climb down or a dismount jump – consequently it is best to take a decent pad or two.
More bouldering can be found in the nearby Carreg Bengam Bach area, indeed exploration of the complex, undulating slopes leading up to Yr Arddu will reveal all sorts of interesting rock features.
The wall stays dry in rain, although in stormy weather it might blow in a bit and in persistent heavy rain it will start, eventually, to run down the rock face. Year round climbing is possible, but midges can be a problem on still summer evenings.
There is a small layby on the road beneath crag. The bouldering wall is situated over the ‘A’ frame stile at the right side of the main crag; it can be reached by a steep little path running up from the road.